Galería del Atleta

Alex Txicon
Alex Txicon

Alex Txicon

Bilbao, Spain
Alex is the world’s only mountaineer to lead winter expeditions every year since the winter of 2011. He has two winter first ascents: LAILA PEAK (6096m) in 2013, and NANGA PARBAT (8126m) in 2016. Alex is also a competent rock climber, with successful ascents up to 8a.

Best moments

  • My childhood, when I was learning everything.
  • The first time I climbed a mountain in the Alps. 
  • The decision to quit my job and become a professional mountaineer.


  • I would like to continue traveling, learning about the world and embarking on unusual projects.
  • I want to imagine, reach and share milestones that seem impossible, to never lose the dream.
  • I want to develop sustainable and inclusive projects.


For Alex, one of the most important things is to attempt his climbs in a different style, in winter, when conditions are far from ideal. His perseverance, tolerance to extreme conditions and tenacity are the qualities which take him to the highest peaks on the planet in the middle of winter. He always keeps calm, measured approach: “When you are up there, you realize that you have not achieved the summit until you reach the bottom again.


Short Curriculum Vitae

  • 2012: March 9th, first ascent of GASHERBRUM SOUTH (7.109m).

  • 2013: First winter ascent, and third overall ascent, of LAILA PEAK (6,096m).

  • 2016: February 26th, first winter ascent of NANGA PARBAT (8,126m).

  • 2018: January 20th, first winter repeat ascent of PUMORI (7,161m).

  • 2020: January 25th, winter ascent of AMA DABLAM (6,812m).

  • 2011 Winter attempt of GASHERBRUM 1 (8,080M), height reached 7,100m.

  • 2017 Winter attempt of EVEREST (8,848m), reached C4 (8,000m) three times.

  • 2019 Winter attempt of K2 (8,611m), reached 7,100m along the Abruzzi Route then collaborated in the rescue of Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on Nanga Parbat.

  • 2020 Winter attempt of EVEREST (8,848m), reached 7,050m.

Desde la cima del Nuptse, Lhotse y rescate de Juanjo Garran en el Dhaulagiri #TxikonXtreme
Alex Txikon