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We interviewed Edu Marin

Today we are pleased to have our unstoppable athlete Edu Marin!

Hi Edu, before we begin, we want to thank you for the time you are dedicating for this small interview. We believe such an exciting adventure has to be filled with thousands of experiences. We believe our followers are interested in learning more about this project.

Let us start from the beginning. What led you to climb the longest ceiling in the world at the Great Arch of Getu?

In recent years, I've been climbing the hardest multi-pitches in the world. I've been acquiring experience and knowledge with a single goal, to open my own project.

My favorite style has always been the ceiling but the vast majority of the routes are slabs and technical. I have always dreamt of a multi-pitch like this one, no doubt Valhalla is something very special, something unique in its style. You have to be climbing for hours and hours upside down and hanging completely from your arms. An extremely physical and very psychological climb as there is a lot of distance to cover every time you clip on.

At what point are you at in your project?

A few days ago I managed to clear the 5th length “Odyn’s Crack” 9ª+ the toughest length and the only one I had left to do.

Clearing it has been a really complicated process we must take into account it is the 5th one and of course it is of extreme difficulty.

I could only give it two attempts per day because my body was destroyed from the tension of hanging for almost 25 minutes and the constant physical exertion. Everything from my legs to my teeth was sore the following day! Hahaha

It is known that climbing on ceilings is very demanding on a physical level, have you prepared in any special way?

That's right, climbing on ceilings is the most demanding and exhausting, especially in Valhalla where you have to be completely in tension, climbing in unimaginable positions as it is a 3D climb and of course the difficulty of its lengths. It's comparable to an Iron Man but hanging from your fingers and arms.

I have been preparing many years to complete this project, years of experience, years of training, years of learning and determination.

Now I am prepared to try to culminate projects of these dimensions.

To be a whole process, equip this ceiling, then release all its lengths and now try to make it in a day. This is the result of many years of preparation and dedication to get here.

Interview Edu Marin


How do you value the previous experience of opening the route? Is it an important part of the project or just a means to a performance?

It is the most important part because it is the essence of the climbing, especially in Valhalla because in the beginning nobody believed it would be possible to equip and free climb the 380 meter ceiling. It was one of the most intense, beautiful and tiring experiences of my career.

It was two months of a lot of work, door swings, hours of jumaring, drilling, looking for the right line... All this with the uncertainty of whether it was really possible to free climb the ceiling.

My brother was helping me during these two months of intense work, it was an incredible and tiring adventure.

For the belayers to move through a ceiling like this, to secure the starts and attempts is not easy. Who helped you and what do you think their experience was like?

I had to fix the entire ceiling with static ropes, there are more than 800 meters of rope fixed, on this way the bilayers, in this case my brother and my father, can reach my rappelling and jumaring.

Of course it is a tiring job because to follow me they have to go through the ropes for almost 400 meters of ceiling.

My brother and father have supported me unconditionally, without their help all this would not have been possible.

Alex and I were equipping for 8 weeks with days of up to 12 hours.

I think the conditions are tough, how are you handling the cold? Do you have a thermos with hot water for the ceiling?

We’ve been three and a half months at Getu, since November and winter here has been very hard, cold, humid, rain has been punishing us day after day.

I did not want to leave because it has been a long and intense process to free all the lengths, memorize all the sequences and acclimate to this epic and demanding style.

We've been climbing in winter conditions up to -5ºC.

Now that spring and sunny days have come, it seems everything is simpler, we feel in full form and my body is totally different from when I arrived, it is as if I had mutated to climb that ceiling.

Interview Edu Marin

Have you had any contact with climbers from China? How do you see climbing in this country?

Yes, I have very good friends in China, I’ve also been training many days with them and currently China has very strong climbers, I think in the near future they will give us a lot to talk about.

In my opinion China is a paradise for climbing with a remarkable variety of landscapes, mountains and rocks.

What advantages and disadvantages would you highlight on "Valhalla" 9ª+

Advantages? When summer comes I can go to the beach to sow off my biceps, abs… Hahaha.

Disadvantages? I've had to spend a lot of money on physio! Back pain, neck... Hahahaha.


Interview Edu Marin

Once this adventure is over, what will you do next? Do you have a route in mind?

It is possible that my next adventure will be in Asia again! ;)

Your father recently suffered a fall when he slipped on the approach to the route. How is he?

My dad’s an oak, already recovered and ready to follow me through that majestic ceiling.

It's the greatest Marin, no doubt.

From BOREAL we send you our best wishes.

Thank you very much for your collaboration Edu, we hope to see you again soon!

 

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